Nostalgic Feels
Nostalgia: a wistful desire to return in thought or in fact to a former time in one's life, to one's home or homeland, or to one's family and friends; a sentimental yearning for the happiness of a former place or time.
This topic has become entrenched in my mind over the last couple of months – partly because of the longing for a return to ‘traditional family values’ I’ve heard spoken about here in the US in the lead up to the election, and partly for my own pining for home, family, friends, and a country a lot less divided than the one I’m currently living in. It’s made me wonder, why is ‘nostalgia’ for the past such a strong emotion for us? Are our memories etched with a fondness that is really just an exaggeration of truth; and do we tend to eliminate the negative memories? Can feelings of nostalgia be trusted? It’s also made me ponder towns and cities that are built around the nostalgia of the past, and what type of emotion that creates for visitors. One such town I visited recently that falls into this category is Hot Springs, Arkansas, and I explore this topic of ‘nostalgia’ through my travel photography of this intriguing town along with some research.
“Nestled in the majestic Ouachita Mountains, Hot Springs National Park became known as America’s First Resort for its naturally thermal waters, luxury hotels, lively nightlife, fine dining and exciting outdoors.“
And it was frequented by many interesting characters, including baseballers:
“In 1886, Cap Anson brought his Chicago White Stockings (now the Cubs) to Hot Springs for the start of something new: spring training. As many as 250 professional baseball players, including some of the biggest legends of the game such as Babe Ruth, convened here in The Spa City each spring for training and recreation.” Hot Springs Baseball Trail
Much of the attraction of visiting Hot Springs today is also to experience the thermal springs and the gorgeous architecture of Bathhouse Row - consisting of eight bathhouse buildings that were constructed between the years of 1896 and 1923.
“The first bathhouses of the late 1800s were crude structures built of canvas and lumber, little more than tents perched over individual springs or reservoirs carved out of the rock. Later, businessmen built wooden structures, but they frequently burned, collapsed because of shoddy construction, or rotted due to continued exposure to high temperatures and humidity. As the bathhouses continued to grow in popularity, the park's superintendent deemed that more resilient and fireproof structures were needed. Starting in 1896, many of the wooden bathhouses were replaced with the bathhouses that we see today made of masonry and steel.” nps.gov
The simply designed, elegant Neo-Classical Revival Buckstaff Baths is the only bathhouse that offers a traditional bathing experience and has been in continuous operation since opening its doors in 1912. nps.gov
The Quapaw Baths opened in 1922 as the longest structure on the row. The Quapaw bathhouse takes its name from one of the Indian tribes in Arkansas; coincidentally, Native American artifacts were uncovered during the excavations for the building’s basement. Society of Architural Historians
The current Lamar Bathhouse opened in 1923. The stone, brick, and stucco construction is moderately Spanish. The Lamar was unique in that it offered a range of tub lengths (5', 5' 9", 6', 6' 6") for people of various heights. nps.gov
The Fordyce was built to rival the baths of Europe. The three-story cream brick building has a mix of Italian, Greek and Spanish design elements: marble floors, stained glass clerestory windows and terra cotta fountains. Built in 1915, today it functions as the park’s visitor center. nps.gov
Part of the beauty of bathing in any of these operational baths, is the trip down history lane. For baseball fans, to think that you might be bathing in the same spot that Babe Ruth once bathed in, well, that could be a tad exciting!
Along with the baths being used by baseballers to ‘boil out the impurities in their system from too much drinking’, Al Capone thought the powers of the thermal waters might heal him of his syphilis! According to The Tennesseean, he was attracted to the town for other reasons, too, including the illegal gambling.
“Capone settled in, and was soon followed by other gangsters. Rival mob figures spent long vacations in Hot Springs, but just like the Indians before them, they considered the city neutral territory.
"They didn't speak, but they didn't shoot at each other," says Robert Raines, director of the popular Gangster Museum of America. The museum examines the days when Capone, Lucky Luciano and other underworld figures were fixtures in Hot Springs clubs and casinos. "They could come here and almost be normal," Raines says. "They were good citizens, very generous."
Gambling was illegal in Hot Springs, but for years, it thrived while state officials looked the other way. There was no tax revenue from the illegal $100-million-a-year business, but officials were happy with the tourism boost it gave the local economy, Raines says. A new governor shut down everything except Oaklawn Racing in the mid-'60s, and Hot Springs changed direction.
Capone liked Hot Springs so much that he had a permanent suite on the fourth floor of the Arlington Hotel. From his window, he could look down Central Avenue and see a row of busy bathhouses, nightclubs (Tony Bennett sang "I Left My Heart in San Francisco" for the first time at the Black Orchid Club) and about 50 casinos.”
At the Gangster Museum, you’re able to take yourself back to the days of the 20s, 30s, and 40s when the most notorious criminals in America co-existed with the quaint population of this little valley town. This got me thinking about gangsters, and why they’re held in such mysterious, high regard by some. I found this great article Why Do We Admire Mobsters in The New Yorker that answered this question for me, that also speaks to why we are nostalgic for anything. Here’s an excerpt:
“Why are members of the Italian mafia treated more like celebrities than unsavory criminals?
The glamorization of the mob started with Prohibition. In the early years of the twentieth century, mobsters were just small-time operators. Then came the Volstead Act, which outlawed alcohol. “One of the side effects was to solidify organized crime and create a real, international organization out of what was, in essence, small criminal groups,” Because Prohibition was hugely unpopular, the men who stood up to it were heralded as heroes, not criminals. “It was the start of their image as people who can thumb their noses at bad laws and at the establishment,” Even when Prohibition was repealed and the services of the bootleggers were no longer required, that initial positive image stuck. Books like Mario Puzo’s “The Godfather” communicated the idea that mobsters were men who cared about the happiness of their communities and who lived by their own codes of honor and conduct, impervious to the political whims of the establishment.”
And speaking about nostalgia in general:
“Ultimately, the mob myth depends on psychological distance, a term coined by the New York University psychologist Yaacov Trope to describe the phenomenon of mental distancing that takes place when we separate ourselves from events, people, emotions, or concepts. In some cases, that distance comes naturally. As painful events recede into the past, our perceptions soften; when we physically remove ourselves from emotionally disturbing situations, our emotions cool. In other cases, we need to deliberately cultivate distance—to “gain perspective.” Trope likens it to the old cliché of missing the forest for the trees: you can wander around in the trees forever or, through training or external intervention, realize that you need to step back to see the full vista.
Once attained, psychological distance allows us to romanticize and feel nostalgia for almost anything. It provides a filter, eliminating some details and emphasizing others. We speak of the good old days, hardly ever of the bad. Psychological distance is, among other things, a coping mechanism: it protects against depression and its close cousin, rumination, which pushes us to dwell too long on unpleasant details from the past instead of moving forward. When, instead, we smooth the edges of the past, remembering it as better than it was, we end up hoping for an equally happy future.”
Another thing to reminisce at Hot Springs is President Bill Clinton. His boyhood home is here along with the Hot Springs High School where he attended. How do people remember President Clinton today? Do they view his indiscretions during his time as President with the same level of seriousness as they would have back in 1998 when he was impeached? Or do they look upon the time with nostalgia?
Hot Springs Hight School, attended by President Bill Clinton
Even the local barber shop feels nostalgic and harks back to a time in the past.
And the colourful magazine holders on the street remind us of the times when most of our information was received via print.
You can purchase ‘retro inspired’ shakes, malts, and ice creams made from ‘real fruit’ at Bailey’s.
Or you can view the interesting historic houses throughout the town.
But my favourite ‘nostalgia’ in Hot Springs, Arkansas, was the retro motel beauties! I’m not sure why I’m so attracted to these - the pretty signage, what they represent (a good old fashioned road trip), or just the fact that there is something wholesome about them. They’re not a glamorous, ritzy hotel with 5 star service, but something a bit more humble - usually Mom and Pop run type places with friendly service and genuine hospitality, and I love that!
According to Thrillest, motels are currently having their time in the sun in America:
“As Americans rethink their vacations, they're making good on the prediction that this summer will all but be defined by the open road (note, the article was written in June 2020 when COVID had slightly subsided) - often off the interstate, and away from the identical chain hotels. They're seeking places with character and history, playing into the retro narrative of a lifestyle being embraced en masse, both out of necessity and the desire to get out there. These retro motels provide modern comforts without skimping on the nostalgia and kitsch that people so crave.
After all, who wants to take selfies in a Motel 6?
“I think for our younger guests [the retro design aesthetic] just feels more interesting and authentic,” Lane said. “For older guests, it actually does feel nostalgic. They enjoy the retro because they saw the original and they think that it's done well. And we do, too.”
And USA Today writes:
“More hotel companies and independent owners are gravitating toward the basic motel model with exterior corridors and rooms that guests can drive up to. But they are introducing a modern twist, with whimsical decor and better food and beverage options.
Motels are really the icons of family travel and friendly road trips back in that time, they were fun and they were easy and people had a great experience there. You could park your car right in front and walk into the door.”
Many Motor Courts popped up in Hot Springs during its heyday. Some of these have now been spruced up in a retro style to appeal to a more discerning traveller, others are sadly living off the (somewhat) impressiveness of their signage, or perhaps just the fact that they’re cheap. Gold-Inn is in the former category, and besides the awesome sign, it’s super cute inside!
I mean, how could you resist! (and yes, it’s the same image as at the top, just processed differently)
The ‘flamingo’ inspired Dame Fortune’s Cottage Court reminded my of my Nana’s house - not the flamingoes, but the vibe.
Looking a little more tired is the Lynwood Motel - think I’ll leave this one to the Seniors.
Despite the awesome signage, the Motel Capri doesn’t look overly appealing!
Another great sign….motel, not so much.
Whilst Hot Springs still thrives off its past, it’s also had to reinvent itself, especially after the gangster activity in Hot Springs came to an end in the 1960s, due to a federal crackdown on what the government called “the site of the largest illegal gambling operation in the U.S.” hot springs.org
When the gamblers and gangsters left, Hot Springs looked to nature for reinvention. Lake Hamilton, Lake Catherine and Lake Ouachita draw boaters and anglers from across the region, and the mountains attract bikers and hikers. We visited the spectacular Garvan Woodland Gardens, a 210-acre botanical garden owned by the University of Arkansas. Here are some snaps:
The beautiful mural in Hot Springs promoting the Garvan Woodland Gardens
Everything about Hot Springs has a romanticized feel about it, even its newer attractions, including the beautiful whimsical mural above. This blends in nicely with the whole idea of nostalgia - retreating into a romanticized past. Kristine Batcho writes about this in her article The psychological benefits - and trappings - of nostalgia:
“The desire to escape into the imagined, idealized world of a prior era – even one you weren’t alive for – represents a different, independent type of nostalgia called historical nostalgia:
Historical nostalgia is often concurrent with a deep dissatisfaction with the present and a preference for the way things were long ago. Unlike personal nostalgia, someone who experiences historical nostalgia might have a more cynical perspective of the world, one colored by pain, trauma, regret or adverse childhood experiences.”
It’s a strange kind of place Hot Springs. A town riding on their past history of bathhouses, gangsters and retro motels - a kind of ‘has-been’ town - yet surrounded by beautiful lakes, mountains and gardens. It was hard not to get caught up in it’s strong sense of nostalgia. It was also a place to take pause, and to reflect on the conversations I’d recently had with many Americans about their voting preferences. For some, it was partly about wanting to return to an America of the past - when things seemed simpler, traditional family values were upheld, and when they felt religious liberty wasn’t in peril.
But, as Yaacov Trope writes, is there an element there of ‘missing the forest for the trees’, with some memories of that time emphasized, whilst others were eliminated?
As I sit here now in a deeply divided America, on the brink of another COVID lockdown, I feel a strong sense of nostalgia for home. Living in The South of the US has reminded me of my time growing up in country South Australia - both the positive and the negative traits of that era, and I’ve gained a greater understanding of why people want things to be like they were in the past. But we can’t go backwards, there is only forward - we just have to find ways to weave the past into the present, just as Hot Springs, Arkansas has done.
Finally, something nostalgic that instantly takes me back to my childhood. Enjoy some 1970s Nolan Sisters…